Debuting in New York, London, Milan and Paris, the spring/summer 2023 fashion show season has already ended. After two years in a pandemic with cancellations and interruptions, a month of fashion shows has been enjoyed, taking into account that in London this coincided with the death of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, where she was in national mourning.
In New York, Fendi celebrated the 25th anniversary of the iconic Baguette, as well as the latest collections from Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford. In Milan, Kim Kardashian and Paris Hilton collaborated with Dolce & Gabbana and Versace respectively, being a total surprise for everyone, as well as Kate Moss walking exclusively for Bottega Veneta. Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton were in charge of closing the parades in Paris with their latest collections.
Now, let’s take a look at some of the highlights from the Spring/Summer 2023 collections runway:
- Ralph Lauren
“I have always been inspired by the natural beauty, the heritage, and glamor of the West Coast of America,” Lauren said, as she first ventured to California, presenting the collection at The Huntington Library, Art Museum and Botanical Gardens in San Marino.
- Raf Simons
With the energy of dance and the impact of the body for spring/summer 2023 with guests at the catwalk party at renowned club venue Printworks, with “bare, spare, cut away and stripped back” clothing designs, he sought a focus on radical simplicity. As well as, in collaboration with the estate of the Belgian painter Philippe Vandenberg.
- Alexander McQueen
A giant bubble was erected, right on the Thames, in Greenwich, inspired by the work of the Dutch painter Hieronymus Bosch; his collection was titled ‘First Sight’.
Presenting the spring collection at the Serpentine on a sunny autumn morning, colorful and impressive as always, focusing on the rose, taking its symbology for the collection, as well as its meanings and dualities.
- Louis Vuitton
Designer Nicolas Ghesquière paid special attention to details such as zippers, pockets, buckles and fastenings in the designs for the spring/summer 2023 collection, HoYeon Jung was the star that led the models.
- Miu Miu
Chinese artist Shuang Li created a digital art installation for the Miu Miu catwalk show, which closed with FKA Twigs on the last day in Paris.
The show was titled Allure, with designs inspired by fashion, film and the arts, as well as a woman’s freedom. The show opened with a black and white fashion film starring Kristen Stewart.
Presenting a catwalk inspired by Wonderland City, a Sydney amusement park in the early 20th century, this show was her Paris Fashion Week debut.
- Stella McCartney
With minimalist and sensual designs, the collection was made with 87% conscious materials, inspired by Japanese artist Yoshitomo Nara’s slogan “Change The History”.
creative director Albert Kriemler mentioned “I like fashion to surprise.” A collection that, according to the director, the past, present and future coexist.
- Victoria Beckham
A great moment and achievement for the designer, who made her Paris Fashion Week debut this year at the spring/summer 2023 show.
Focusing on individuality and referencing how haute couture collections are made, Pierpaolo Piccioli introduced the idea with a “base,” which was a t-shirt or tank top for each model matched to their skin tone, the runway was called ‘Unboxing’.
Based on the “erotic tension and precision of an anthurium flower,” designer Jonathan Anderson used natural product designs that may seem fake but are real in the collection presented on the runway.
Based on the cosmopolitan dress codes of France and the United States, Matthew M. Williams presented a catwalk with only women’s clothing, exploring “a transatlantic clash of city wardrobes”.
With a great show, Coperni sprayed a dress on the body of Bella Hadid live on the catwalk, showing innovation in their creations and being one of the most talked about shows of Fashion Week in Paris 2023.
A collection based on a celebration of Abloh’s life and work was presented, featuring an important issue facing America today, abortion rights. He’s collaborated with artist Jenny Holzer, releasing t-shirts which will raise money for Planned Parenthood.
The idea that went to the 1990s was based on “Back to the roots”, silk chiffon blouses, shiny metallic embroidery, slip dresses, baggy cargo pants, among other very vintage designs.
It was the second chapter of the house’s research into climate solutions, the creation of the designs and the catwalk was based on scientific research on this subject. “In this chapter of climate success, the focus of our research was fusion energy as a large-scale, peaceful, clean energy source,” Hearst said of the collection.
- Cecilie Bahnsen
For the creation of the designs, we thought about the women who wear their clothes and the different places where they wear them, paying attention to what a woman can wear “a rainy Tuesday morning” or also “a party on a Saturday night “.
Olivier Rousteing called the show’s collection ‘The Balmain Festival’, with Cher on the catwalk and Kyle Jenner in the front row.
- Saint Laurent
Drawing inspiration from American choreographer Martha Graham, Anthony Vaccarello used designs like sheath dresses that his dancers wore in a 1930s production for the basis of the designs, as well as incredible accessories and lots of leather in some designs.
Between autobiography and reflection, Grazia Chiuri’s designs for the catwalk were based, inspired by the Tuileries Gardens, created according to the wishes of Catherine de Médicis.
With models like Naomi Campbell, Karen Elson and Bella Hadid on the catwalk, Riccardo Tisci’s latest collection was shown, before announcing the appointment of Daniel Lee as the new creative director.
“Through an ever-evolving ethical and aesthetic language, creative director Rocco Iannone chooses to narrate the dream.” he explained the brand, as well as mentioning that they were based on the aesthetic codes of the automotive world and a futuristic and high-tech approach.
- Dolce & Gabbana
With the participation of Kim Kardashian, whom they describe as “the ultimate muse”, they took inspiration from some fashion pieces from the 90s and 2000s and an “authentic DNA” of Dolce & Gabbana for the new collection.
- Giorgio Armani
With a collection created and “designed to calm”, Giorgio Armani was inspired by an overall feeling of lightness.
- Bottega Veneta
Matthieu Blazy’s collection for Bottega Veneta was inspired by the elegance and silent power of the everyday.
Paris Hilton closed the Versace show, the runway and collection was inspired by the 90s and 2000s. Paris walked in a sparkly pink chainmail mini dress and fingerless gloves.
- Salvatore Ferragamo
Designs inspired by the sparkling red crystal shoes Ferragamo made for Marilyn Monroe in 1959, and a Wanda bag introduced in 1988, were reinterpreted as well as elegant evening wear and everyday elements.
With a collection inspired by the magic of twins, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele recruited 68 pairs of identical twins. The show was called Gucci Twinsburg, inspired by the designer’s mother and his twin sister.
It was a collection designed for “a sequence of realities” focused on contrasting elements, also with an experience in a series of short films that explore the lives of women and modern femininity and with the special invitation of film director Nicolas Winding Refn.
- Max Mara
Taking a trip to the Riviera in the 1930s, the inspiration for the collection was the timeless style of Renée Perle, the “silent muse” of French photographer Jacques-Henri Lartigue and also the architect Eileen Gray.
- Richard Quinn
With the collection dedicated to Her Majesty the Queen and Richard Quinn said “she touched him amongst so many others with her grace and kindness”, with images of the Queen as she walked the catwalk, the designs were all-black gowns, combined with veils and crowns.
- Christopher Kane
Inspired by science and nature, with minimalist uniforms of nurses and doctors, as well as skeletal structures, anatomical drawings and flowers, Christopher Kane designs.
Exploring art restoration, the designs were inspired by Erdem Moralıoğlu’s research into British Museum, Tate, V&A and National Gallery restorations.
With a celebration of the 60th anniversary of the Barbie Dreamhouse being the runway show, with an investigation into the Mattel archives, Michael Halpern made designs inspired by archival designs of some Barbie dolls.
- Nensi Dojaka
The flower is the “eternal inspiration” of designer Nensi Dojaka, with designs in a soft color palette of lilacs, pinks and purples, as well as sequins and flowers, reminiscent of a garden.
- Simone Rocha
The collection had the healing of the earth, with floral motifs, showing Rocha’s characteristic deconstructed designs, it was described as “a reaction to distress”.
- David Koma
Drawing inspiration from the streets of London and its “everyday enchantment”, David Koma’s spring/summer 2023 runway collection looks were represented.
With a collection called ‘Forget Me Not’, designed as a tribute to Federica ‘Kikka’ Cavenat, the founder of the brand and inspired by “the wildflower with petals of dusty pink and faded lilac-blue; a symbol of true and eternal love, devotion and remembrance”.
- Rejina Pyo
Inspired by Tolstoy’s quote “One can live magnificently in this world if one knows how to work and how to love”, the collection was a celebration of women and what it means to love and work.
- Molly Goddard
Inspired by the work of couturier Charles James “That element inspired this season, pushing fabrics to their extremes, utilizing the qualities of each fabric and letting it do the work” and also taking the designs of the collection to the time before social networks
The collection was inspired by a trip to Goa, where founder Orlagh McCloskey fell in love with the Fontainhas area, also known as Goa’s Latin Quarter.
- Huishan Zhang
The collection was based on the future, showing “couture through a utopian lens”, with wardrobe classics that were transformed into hybrids.
- Harris Reed
With a collection inspired by the performative nature of fashion and inspired by the dress codes of a debutante ball, with deconstructed designs and theatrical headdresses, it was called Mise en Scène.
- Daniel W. Fletcher
With a tribute to figures from the past and Her Majesty the Queen, Daniel W. Fletcher made his collection that he presented for spring/summer 2023.
- Bora Aksu
With designs inspired by the works of Henry Darger and artist Marcel Dzama, “the relationship between innocence and perversion, delivering pieces that toe the line between the delicate and the resolute” was explored and showcased.
- Tom Ford
A lot of glamor and a lot of sparkle were presented on the Tom Ford catwalk, disco dresses, heels and large earrings were the emphasis along with lace bases.
- Michael Kors
An “urban resort” for the collection’s catwalk with a sleek, urban style with understated glamour.
- Gabriela Hearst
Drawing inspiration from the ancient Greek poet Sappho, the collection was monochromatic with flashes of metallic gold, Hearst describes how “images of garments started to appear, and I would draw or paint them on notebooks.”
The collection ranged from classic totes to tiny clutches, wristbands, pins and even jewelry, paying homage to the iconic piece, according to the creative collaborators.
- Tory Burch
Wearing luxurious fabrics designed to move with the body in an “exploration of form,” models like Emily Ratajkowski graced the runway. “This collection is personal and intuitive, drawing on my memories of the ’90s when I moved to New York,” mentioned Tory Burch.
Ukrainian cultural symbols were incorporated into the collection’s design inspiration in a poignant display of fragility and strength, paying homage to Ukraine.
- Tommy Hilfiger
It was a catwalk full of stars like Ashley Graham, Lila Moss, Winnie Harlow, Julia Fox and a front row Kate Moss, Kris Jenner, John Legend, among others, “remixed traditional Americana codes with a contemporary, streetwear-inspired twist”.
- Jason Wu
With the post-pandemic renaissance of America’s fashion capital as the inspiration for Jason Wu’s latest collection, paying homage to great American designers. “People are dressing up again and now every moment is a moment and why shouldn’t it be?”
- Proenza Schouler
Inspired by water “as a symbol of life”, the collection was also inspired by the personal stories of designers Jack McCollough and Lázaro Hernández.
- Carolina Herrera
Inspired by The Secret Garden, Wes Gordon’s latest collection was presented, where nature and beauty could be described with this book from his childhood.